Bmw performance parts miami

This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series. The book contains pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. The book was released in Augustand is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.

BMW cooling systems have been known for being troublesome for quite some time. One of the principle areas of failure are the thermostat and water pump. Some of the old style water pumps had a plastic impeller that has a tendency to become brittle and break off after many years of service.

BMW has replaced the plastic impeller in recent years with a metal one. If you know that you have a plastic impeller in your car, then you should replace it as soon as possible. Overheating problems are common on these cars, and if your engine overheats, you may find yourself having to replace your head gasket, which is not cheap.

Begin the process by gaining access to your water pump. This requires the removal of the fan and belts, as well as the removal of all coolant from the system. See the following technical articles for instructions on how to get to this point:. Removal of all coolant from the system Removal of the accessory drive belts Removal of the radiator fan. With all of your equipment removed, the front of your engine should resemble Figure 1.

Remove the fan pulley from the water pump - it is held on with four small nuts. Your water pump should now resemble Figure 2. Loosen the four nuts that hold the water pump to the engine block. Then, using a rubber mallet, softly tap on the side of the water pump Figure 3. It should separate from the block after a few taps with the rubber mallet Figure 4.

Once the water pump is loose, you should be able to pull it out of the engine block. Figure 5 shows a brand new water pump with the metal impeller. Figure 6Figure 7and Figure 8 show the differences between the plastic one and the metal one. There is no functional difference - they will both pump the same amount of coolant through the system.

With the pump removed, check the inside bore where the water pump fits for debris or corrosion Figure 9. With a wire brush, remove any corrosion or debris that may have built up there Figure Install the new water pump using a new o-ring. Place a little bit of white lithium grease around the o-ring to ensure that you have a good seal, and to ease installation of the pump into the engine block Figure Install the new pump and tighten down the four bolts that attach it to the block.

Torque them to 8 ft-lbs - no tighter. Figure 12 shows your new water pump installed. Reattach the fan pulley, the fan, and all of your belts. Refill and bleed the system, and you should be good to go! While replacing your water pump, it's also a good time to replace your thermostat, while you're in there. Well, there you have it - it'sreally not too difficult at all. If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.

If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one. Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one. As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line. Join us in our BMW E36 Technical Forum Message Board and ask a question to one of our many automotive experts.

BMW E30 3-Series BMW Water Pump Replacement. Metric socket set, ratchet, extensions, metric wrench set, rubber mallet, fan removal tool, 32mm wrench, Philips head screwdriver, flatblade screwdriver, electric drill and wire brush attachment, white lithium grease, torque wrench Applicable Models: Need to buy parts for this project? Click here to order! See the following technical articles for instructions on how to get to this point: Removal of all coolant from the system Removal of the accessory drive belts Removal of the radiator fan With all of your equipment removed, the front of your engine should resemble Figure 1.

When I tried to get my pump out it got stuck halfway. There was a brass "item" that had fallen down jamming. When I managed to push it up again I got the pump out. Then the brass "thing" fell out togehter with some plastic and an o-ring.

Anybody who knows what it is? Looks like a piece of a sensor or thermostat. Are there any electrical terminals on it? PARTS CATALOG Porsche BMW Mercedes-Benz Audi Volkswagen Saab Volvo MINI.

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View All E90 Articles. BMW E46 Tech Articles. Automatic Transmission Fluid Replacement. Oil Filter Housing Gasket Replacement. View All E46 Articles. BMW E36 Tech Articles. View All E36 Articles. View All BMW Tech Articles. BMW Water Pump Replacement Wayne R. Metric socket set, ratchet, extensions, metric wrench set, rubber mallet, fan removal tool, 32mm wrench, Philips head screwdriver, flatblade screwdriver, electric drill and wire brush attachment, white lithium grease, torque wrench.

BMW i Convertible BMW i Sedan BMW is Coupe BMW ti Hatchback BMW i Convertible BMW is Coupe BMW i Convertible BMW i Sedan BMW is Coupe BMW i Convertible BMW i Sedan BMW is Coupe more Water pump with O-ring.

A properly functioning cooling system for your engine thanks to the installation of a new water pump with a steel impeller. Followup from the Pelican Staff: Drill a small hole in the broken fastener and use an extractor to remove it. I have e46 bmw If the thermostat get spoilt can it cause over heating and also cause Black fumes to be coming out of the exhaust and always oil on the surface of the plugs making it difficult to start wen it heats unless its cool.

It can cause over heating, and driving while overheating can destroy your engine. Sounds like you may be destroying your engine! I have a 99 m3 and My steering wheel shakes at mph I got my wheels roadforced balanced and they are good. I bring it to a mechanic shop and he lifted the car and shook the wheels there was movement he said my tie rods are no good. Should I replace the control arms as well.

The car has 57k miles on it. Hmmm that complaint is most often an issue with the ball joints on the control arms, so I would definitely replace the arms. Not sure the tie rods will fix that. Hard to say without seeing the car though! I have an E36 i M43 and yesterday she over heat. I succeed to bring it home and today drive with it to work.

On my way, I got a small traffic jam let's say, driving kph for 1 minute and the temperature rise almost to over heat and I stop.

I was waiting for 3 minutes and I start driving again and I have succeed to arrive to my working place. After work, I've checked the coolant level, it was way too low, so I fill it to the proper level.

Start the engine, after minutes almost to overheat. The upper hose into radiator was very hot, the lower hose out from radiator was cold, while the plastic housing with the thermostat very hot. I put all this on the thermostat, so I took it out and connect back without the thermostat.

I refill the coolant and bleeding the system. I've checked for leaks and there were no leaks. I've checked the water pump to see if it works and I assume that was working since on high revs I could see coolant coming out from the small hole in the expansion reservoir.

The hose into radiator- hot: I have to specify that since weeks ago I've noticed that even the engine temperature it is on proper level, the heating in the cabin could be felt only after few more kilometers. After first over heat on yesterday, I got some leaks from some hoses on the back of the engine, like hoses for core radiator.

I put all these leaks on high temperature and over pressure as well and consider as normal on an over heat situation. What shall I do next? Can you please advise me? Sounds like your radiator may have some blockage.

I have also heard that running without a thermostat can cause over heating, but it sounds like your case is a restricted radiator. Might be worth replacing thermostat, first then radiator. Ok so if the water pump is faulty and the fan is hitting the shroud what do you recommend me to do?

BMW i sedan. Replace the water pump, fan blades and fan clutch. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. I would assume the water pump pis faulty, causing the fan to hit the shroud. I have a iS. If I let the car run with the fan running of course, at a stand still it will slowly rise in temperature. If I rev the car a little, it goes back to optimal temperature.

When driving it's perfect. Could it be water pump? Also I bled the system with the valve on the radiator until a stream of coolant came out no bubbles. It does sound like a flow issue. Either the water pump or a restriction. Remove the reservoir cap, with the engine running is there a steady stream of coolant?

Does that stream increase pressure and flow as RPM is increased? I have a BMWi Water pump needs replacing Do or is it better to remove the bonnet. Replace it as shown in the article. Hallo, Can someone tell me what to look for If my temperature gauge does not work? I have changed both the temperature sensors on the engine, and still it does not work?

When you switch on the ignition the red light comes on then goes off but the needle of the gauge does not pick up. Check the DME for fault codes and the engine temp reading via data stream.

If the circuit is faulty, a code will be stored. Hallo, I have a BMW i E I put water in the water bottle. Could it be the water pump that is faulty. COuld be a leak from anything. I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty.

Ok friend want to ask I've fixed saleri pump which I think it's Italy made and it's leakng from the gasket the silicon that I've added just to avoid leaking in future just noticed it after about 21k my ca is e39 model So shall I clean silicon and diassembe then add some silicon again what I mean is rtv gasket maker and reassemble the pump again? Mine is leaking just drops but I have to refill every 2 weeks with ml or less. You can't seal the pump, it has to be replaced. Give our parts specialists a call at I've a bmw e36 m43 my car is heating.

I've changed my head gasket but still water continues to boil,does it come from the water pump as its fan is completely damaged. Chck if the thermostat is opening, if so I would pressure test the cooling system.

I have a bmw i. Just got it it hasmiles on it. I was driving heard a pop. Seen that the temperature gauge was in the red. Then pulled over car was over heating.

Lifted the hood up and coolant was everywhere. Do i have to replace the water pump. The owner prior told me the heat runs cold. Is this problem related??

I would suggest finding the leak, then repairing the leak and replacing the thermostat. I have a ti with M44 engine. It seems to me that the electric cooling fan is not coming on when the coolant reaches a certain temperature.

I should add that as long as i am driving at normal speeds, the temperature is fine. I assume that is from cool outside air entering through the grille. Sounds like poor flow in the cooling system. Either thermostat or restricted radiator. Just a quick addition to the water pump removal process. Tapping the pump with a rubber mallet wasn't doing the trick on my '98 ti. There are 2 extra threaded holes on the pump that fit a 6M screw.

I purchased 2 of these, 45mm long, at my local hardware store. Simply screw in and alternate the tightening so the pump pulls out straight. Thanks for this article, the process went great! Thanks for the additional info and feedback. Nick, I have an e The pelican tech article recommends using lithium grease. I'd go for clean engine coolant. Should I be using gasket maker on the coolant pump or just lithium grease?

Engines with rubber sealing O-rings require no sealant and should be lubricated using clean engine coolant, only. I have got a e36 16i saloongot overheating problems changed the rad, thermostat.

COuld be a faulty head gasket. I can find information regarding water pump replacement on pretty much all other cars but mine. I have a xi. Can anyone give me some advice on the replacement of my water pump, thermostat and hose on this vehicle?

The all-wheel drive car is tough as space is limited. This article is similar to your model, http: It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

My BMW il water pump went out. The engine was replaced in due to the nikasil cylinder sleeve problem. I purchased car in and told to use oil filters for '96 and newer engines. Question is do I get a pump for '96 engine or for original '94 engine? Or just wait until pump is removed. I would assume the engine if still a model year engine. I have a 96 isM Would a bad coolant temp switch not allow the radiator fan to work.

I ask because my fan only works if I jump the wire at the radiator switch. Also if I wanted to do a complete cooling system overhaul what would I need besides an aluminum radiator, hoses, water pump and bmw blue coolant? What about the plastic water outlets, how many and where are they? A bad fan switch would usually cause the fan to run all the time, there would also be a fault code set. The head will be rechecked once is out.

This M43 has no engine oil cooler as I know, just the transmission oil cooler, and if this would be the problem expansion tank would be full of mixed stuff, and it is not. Here is a picture of the mess. Maybe at this point water is mixing oil? Or at the oil filter housing? Or block engine cracked?

I have seen water pump bearing fail and allow impellers to drill through water jackets on other makes, but never BMW. I would just assume the head or a housing is faulty. That is if the all the gaskets looked ok when it was pulled apart. Can you see any pitting? Check for straightness too while everything is apart. Congrats for these really useful articles. I need some help: My car is an e46 M A little water leak from the radiator that was not repaired several months untill now turned into a catastrophic engine failure nightmare: All indicates that SHOULD be a blown head gasket, but, replaced the head gasket -after checking by a pressure test the head itself and the transmision oil cooler- three days after the problemm returned, and worst.

Radiator, thermostat, head gasket, head bolts, CCV valve, etc were replaced. Now, the mechanic took off the timing chain and the water pump this was very very difficult that had a lot of rust. He is suspecting that the water pump was not sealing and the water was mixing the oil at this point. Is this possible or we should look on another place? I don't see how the water pump gasket could mix with oi. I would recheck the head or oil cooler.

That will be where the problem lies. How do I know if WP is getting bad. As of now I am hearing some strange sound from the engine bay which I think could be WP is about to fail but need to confirm that.

The sound gets louder as I accelerate, it's not overly loud; seems like something is rotating as I accelerate and then stops as I break.

It could be alternator as well. Is there any indication WP is about to fail noise wise or anything else I should look for. Thanks for your help. You can remove the drive belt, then rotate the water pump and see if it feels like it is binding, or if it has excessive play. What tank is popping? I have a 38ic BMW and we put a new water pump on and a new thermostat and it is still overheating there is no water filtering threw the hose. You may need to bleed the cooling system or have a restriction somewhere, like the radiator.

I have a 99 i change the thermostat and have replaced the radiator on it still getting no heat inside and overheating still an issue after minutes on idle quicker if driving think it maybe a water pump issue? First check if there is air in the cooling system. If not, the water pump may be at fault. Check if there is a steady stream of coolant coming out of the bleeder hole in the coolant reservoir. I have an 96 i and 2 of the bolts are broken there a way to get a water pump housing or how do I go about it if the bolts look connected to the block.

You can drill and remove the broken bolts or replace the timing cover. I believe the water pump housing is part of the timing cover. Inspect the heat shields, they may be missing. The exhaust system should have metal shields between it and the cabin. Hello good day I have a problem and do not know what may be, I have a e30 i 88, and is warming in the sunlit in the Cabin, the interrutores of elevated glass heats that can not play and the floor of the front seat and copilot, the car just passed the first quarter meter temperature, ralentin okay, just sometimes does flips, and otherwise the closure centarlizado no longer works and not the front doors are secured by more strength to do them this it can be?

I apologize, but I am not sure what you are trying to fix. Can you try to explain the issue again? Maybe missing underbody heat shields?

Do you think this will fix the the water temp needle not reaching the middle of the gauge? Your issue could be a thermostat that is stuck open. I would start there and see if it remedies your problem. What is the symptoms of abad water pump?? Poor or inconsistent heat output.

Thanks for all the help articles. My BMW 98' is auto is still overheating, normally after about 15 min of driving. Aux fan switch working, thermostat opens, new radiator cap holds and system seems to keep pressure. What should I try next? I have 96 i, as theas tightening the bolts on the water pump they broke. So I'm wondering how do I remove those screws if they are attached to the block? Remove the water pump. If there is enough bolt sticking out, unscrew them using vise grips.

If not, you will have to drill the bolts and use an extractor to remove them. Hi Pelican Staff, I have BMW i overheating. When I start the engine water pressure a lot and come up. I drive maybe not even five minutes and start overheating. Could you please help me with that. Sounds like a head gasket. Just FYI sorry if it's already mentioned but the water pump is easily removed using two 6mmx1.

Thread them into the holes on the water pump between the two pairs of holes holding the pump on. They act like pullers so you can avoid tapping on the pump. Thanks for the additional info. So I changed my fan, radiator, fan clutch, water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing part on my BMW is. It seems to be fine I just wanted to know if there's anything I should worry about besides that? The whole reason I changed that was because my fan just broke on the road one day and the pieces were hitting the radiator but I'm guessing it affected all those parts I changed as well as it still over heated.

It is running fine now though, there is a suspicious white smoke though that I'm worried about? White smoke is likely coolant. Hi pelican I got m42 engine bmw Cant get pump out. There seem to be some plate over it. Do i need to remove the platete 1st before removing the pump. Can you share a photo of the plate?

Hi Pelican, I have a E36 is M It recently overheated so I replaced the radiator which had a large crack in the bottom of the expansion tank with no other leaks. Also replaced the belts and hoses at the time. It ran fine for a week and a bit then it overheated again, and I thought it must be the thermostat so changed that and since then it has been running well.

After a warm drive in heavy traffic I stopped and found coolant spewing out of the radiator cap. The temperature remained in the 12 o'clock position. Do you think there is air in the system or could it be the water pump which I believe hass a metal impeller I think.

Your help would be greatly appreciated: Air would have shown up sooner, I would think. Check if the how to make money in bioshock 2 has air, bleed it, then check coolant flow. You should have a steady stream of coolant out of the bleeder hole in the reservoir. I would also pressure test the cooling system. About how much time should it take a Master Tech to replace the coolant pump on a BMW i?

I'm concerned about being over charged at a dealership. Not sure, if you are concerned about being overcharged, call around your area for a few quotes. Ok so my dilemma on the e36 i is the darn water pump. It's starting to wiggle but have no support to pry it out. The propeller which the fan screws onto has broken off. The bolts are all out and myer chadstone easter trading hours 2014 holes were the screws go into have all broken business plan trading forex. It seems to be a bit loos but do not know what to do to grab it and pull.

Any help would be very appreciated. If the extraction holes are broken, you are stuck trying to hand wiggle it until it comes loose. You can best money earning franchises light pressure with a small lever, however, be very careful not youtube daytradingforexlive damage the engine.

HI i have a bmw xi with 72, miles i just replaced the thermostat and waterpump. You may have air trapped in the cooling system. Check the coolant level and try bleeding it again. I answered you at your first posting. Air has to be trapped.

Turn the heat on HIGH, then idle the engine. Allow it to warm and cool a few times, while monitoring the temp and coolant level. Top up as needed. I stripped the bolt on the water pump trying to put the fan back on after replacing the thermostat. Which bolt did you strip? It may be faster for you to call our parts specialists to get the bolt: I have a 95 i. Check the coolant pump. 777 binary options daily david impeller could be worn.

My '96 IS overheated because the radiator supply hose got shaved down by the fan and my coolant ran dry. I replaced the hose and refilled with plain water because I was nowhere near a service station and could't get coolant. About 10 or so miles down the road, it overheated again. There was a leak at the reservoir, but I tightened the hose clamp and it seems to have stopped. However, I keep getting a code to check the coolant and there is a hissing sound coming from somewhere below the intake manifold toward the rear of the engine.

There doesn't seem to be oil in my coolant and no milky oil. COuld be a heater hose or coolant pipe leaking. You will be able to locate the leak once you put the system under pressure.

Hello Pelican, I have BMW XI and is been replaced all 3 pumps, Oil pump, Fuel Pump and Water Pump. Now, I have Cylinder mob wars earning money gasket seal leak and I need to know if any of those pump has been replaced has anything to do with my valve gasket leak.

I would think not. I have removed already after reading this article but I have only 3 water pump bolt studs coming out of engine block for my 3 hex head nuts that hold the pump on.

I do have a single hex bolt that fits into the missing stud hole. Is this normal or possibly from forex forum sk owner repair that lost the other stud. Bottom line is it was not leaking before I removed it but I wanted to check here before I place order for all parts needed.

I have tied the coil with wire to pull them back towards the front but something else missing to support radiator that is too sloppy. Any suggestion where to look for exactly how the radiator is properly fastened in? For the radiator, closing stock price for coca cola it and check if the rubber mounts are missing or damaged.

You may have broken parts. Someone may have replaced a stud with a bolt. You can install a new stud. Hey pelican, I'm replacing buy shares in rangers fc water pump on my e, a spring came out with the old oneI need to know how mcmillan stock for cz 527 install it correctly with the new one?

Can you share a photo of the parts in question? Is the water stock market bubble consequences new? There could be something blocking a coolant passage. I want to repeat what so many others have said and thank you for these articles! Recently I bought a 96 i that needs the thermostat and water pump replaced.

I managed to do so, but ran into two issues: I had a torque wrench set to 8lbs per this article.

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On your scale ofhow bad a problem did that cause me and how can I fix it? I noticed you have the part listed as unavailable- where can I find a replacement, and was I using the right tool? The tensioner tool size may vary, if it has been changed in the past.

You will have to see if something larger or smaller fits. The broken stud will have to be drilled out, then removed with an extractor. I have a I notice that I have to add water every week or so checked for a leak could not found any what could it be is a model. Could be forex trading funziona internal engine leak. If you do not find an external leak, it could be a head gasket.

Be sure to check for a leak down the transmission bell housing area, this would indicate a faulty engine valley coolant pipe. I have a BMW is M I have noticed where the two catalytic converters connect each pipe has its own catalytic converter, those two pipes have a union that connect to each other, from that union water droplets seep from it.

Why can that be? Can it be condensation? It is not coolant green but clear like water. Can it be the water pump? My car doesnt over heat it has K and i have never changed it. Occasionally i can hear it clunking from the center of the engine bay. I haven't removed the belt to see how loose it can be. If I am just trying to replace my water pump pulley and NOT the pump, do I need to bleed the system even if I don't removed the water pump?

Thank you in advance. No, if you do not open the cooling system, you do not have to bleed it. My i m40 fail to pump up oil to the tapped and into oil filter i've tried to change oil pump but still failed. HAve to checked if the oil galleys are free from blockage? If you are replacing the pump, the pulley and bolts can be replaced at the same time.

If bolts in the timing case have failed, you will have to drill then out and retap the holes. Its the housing that is leaking and not the water pump, is there a way I can plug it or do I have to change the housing and is it possible to change it? You cannot plug it. You will have to replace or repair the leak.

I would have to see what is leaking to offer detailed advice. Hi there, names David and I have a beautiful 03 i, but recently my car has been leaking water from behind the water pump housing, is there anything I can do to plug it or can I change the housing itself. Is the water pump itself leaking or the engine housing?

I would suggest pressure testing it and pinpointing the leak. Hi there - I have a and its drinking a coolant at a very high rate. The temp gauge moves to middle at idle and drops to 11 o'clock on drive. At 70mph UK I get 80 miles before the low coolant light comes on.

Locally especially stop start the coolant disappears quicker. If there are no external leaks, it could be the headgasket or an oil cooler. If you cannot find a leak, perform a cylinder leak test to see if pressure bleeds off into the cooling system.

Engine starts creeping towards red while sitting idle for too long unless I increase RPMs. Sounds like water pump, right? Takes a bit to hear up initially, as well, so thinking the thermostat might need a replace, too. Does sound like a faulty water pump or restricted heater core.

Does that seem accurate? Then plus 5 hours of labor. I am not sure of labor rates in your area or what brand of parts the shop is using. Your best bet is to call around to a few shops for estimates. Sounds like a faulty head gasket. I would check the cooling system for combustion gas. Sorry I forgot, I have a i twin turbo, what is the process to do this job, did they need to drain the coolant sistem?

Thank u very much! See this tech article: Hi,I recently replace my oil housing gaskets at bmw performance parts miami bimmer shop, but now I have an issue with my water pump cause' when I drive I got engine overheat message, is the oil h.

The coolant could be low. Check to see it if full. You could have a fault in the coolant temp sensor. I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If the system is not working properly, a fault code will be set. This will be your karvy stock broking limited review bet when diagnosing.

Also consider that the head gasket may be faulty and causing combustion gases to escape into the cooling system. There are coolant hoses and gaskets in the engine compartment and under the dashboard. If you can't find it you need to pressurize the cooling system and keep sleuthing. I already replaced the radiator and thermostat and fan switch.

However, the cooling fan sounds really loud. Which fan sounds loud the auxiliary fan or the mechanical fan? Maybe the clutch on the mechanical fan has locked up. Use visegrips to remove the studs from the engine.

They are removable and should come right out. Then replace them with new. They can help you find the right stud.

Hi ive got a e36 i convertible auto has been losing water and temp gage goin into the red every couple of days so put a new rad on and new rad cap and bled the system when the engine is on tick over no heat comes out of the vents but when driving there's heat could this be the head gasket?

Could very well be the head gaskets. If it does not hold pressure and there are no external leaks I would suspect a head gasket. Hi buy a 96 bmw i and its overheatingthe gage goes up after 10 minutes when engine turns on. The oil service light is on in the car and I can see oil driping around the head. Do u thing the head got how to get fast gold on aqw as well as the gasket needed are so.

Even though the car was park for over 5 months Iwas wondering if thats y it has a rusty milky look. Sounds like a bad head gasket. The only way to be sure if the head is ok or not is to remove it have it tested. There could be a crack that will not show up without a pressure test.

I sounds like an air flow problem, check the fan clutch, fan, and electric fan, also check to make sure the fins in the rad and the condenser are clear and not plugged. I forex oil analysis a I.

My replaced the radiator after it cracked. The car kept getting hot after I bled the system time and time again with no effect on the overheating. I noticed that bottom hose was not getting hot so I replaced the Thermostat and now the car will not start.

What could be wrong please someone tell me. First check that no air is trapped in the cooling system. If not, you could have a faulty head gasket. Pressure test your cooling system, if the system will not hold pressure and has no external leaks the head gasket could have failed.

I have a bmw i with the 1. I recently replaced the head gasket and seem to be having a problem getting it in time. I need to know forex pin bar detector steps and cannot find any page with all the steps. Dempsey BMW Camshaft Timing and Vanos Unit Installation Wayne R.

Dempsey - Kerry at Pelican Parts. This resulted in the second "bolt" not sure what the proper term is, shearing off! Now what do I do???? Well I would start by taking the water pump out and trying to grab the sheared off bolt with a vicegrip or something. You may have to drill and either use EZ outs to remove the bolt or just retap new threads - Kerry at Pelican Parts.

Once I get going, its fine especially when I run the car's heater -that brings the temp back to normal.

What are the chances of them going south in only 14 months? You either need to bleed the system some more, check the cooling fan clutch which may run the fan too slow at idle or the electric cooling fan is not working. Once you start driving the airflow is what is cooling off you engine. I don't know what you mean by "water flange" but could it be dripping on your crank sensor at the crank pulley?

My comment is about bmw i after overhitting it refuse to start smelling like burning something since then didnot even swing the is click sound when i attempt to start I thought is a bettery flat but I suspect the is no combussion and i saw smoke came bull spread option strategy example the exhost linked to forexworld philippines block happens share options takeover was strainge pls help out on this one.

If the engine does not crank when you turn the key then you probably have a bad starter or ignitions switch. If it does crank then you probably have a jumped timing chain from over revving it. Thank you so much! This will help out a lot! Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. In my m40 engine i also ended up snapping away the to pieces of flange when attempting the screw method.

Tried hitting it with a rubber mallet with no luck. Eventually I pulled out the hard hammer and started hitting the shit out of it.

Then realized if I hit the structural fins of the water pump Money maker penguin gold could spin it out. The cnt popped out with then help of a pry bar and the hammer. ALL YOU NEED IS A HAMMER AND PRY BAR: You'll find that advice will not help you everywhere in life - Nick at Pelican Parts.

Randy the shade tree man. My daughter has a Z3 6 cylinder and I just removed the water pump on hers using two 6M bolts to push it off in the holes provided. I used PB Blaster in those holes first to make sure they were free of rust and debris that might cause the bolts to not bottom out simultaneously. After screwing the bolts in until the made contact I began turning them very slowly first one then the other only about ten clicks on my ratchet drive karvy stock broking limited review each to insure they both pulled out evenly.

I also occasionally tapped on the fan mount with a hammer and the water pump came off very easily, it was quite corroded and hadmiles on it. It was leaking anti-freez and making a fairly loud noise from the seal and bearings being out. I believe the key to keep from breaking the threaded tabs off is to go very slowly being careful to keep the screws at equal pressure.

I hope that makes sense and helps someone. Yes that is very good advice - Nick at Pelican Parts. I found the pump on my i to be well and truly seized into the block, the mallet and then the sledgehammer methods failed trading system dinapoli remove it.

After getting frustrated and leaving it overnight, I tried putting a large bolt with a nut threaded onto it on top of the pump and tightening the bolt so that the end pressed against the engine and the edge of the nut pressed on the pulley flange of the pump. With that in place, I tapped it back and forth with the sledgehammer, tightened the bolt half a turn, and repeated the process.

After about 10 minutes the pump was appreciably loosened, a solid belt on the bottom of the flange loosened it, coolant went everywhere, and I had room for a new water pump.

That was a pig of a job, I envy those of you who were able to just tap it out with a mallet. I also find this problem of stucked waterpump on M42 engine. Nothing ordinary tricks did not helped. So I bild my bmw performance parts miami special too, so feel free to copy this inexpensive and effective tool. It will help pump out fast and easy. Nice work - Nick at Pelican Parts. My pump was heavily corroded in. I tried the two screw approach, gently and broke a moneymaker shake ya of the water oump away and threded optionshouse for penny stocks other one.

Build a custom puller and apply considerable pressure via 2 bolts. The pump broke off. I used a dremel to cut some of these pump out of the head, and the rest came out OK. It's a good tip to remove the thermostat if trying this approach or you will bust the housing.

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Thanks for the damage assessment - Nick at Pelican Parts. I had to use a sledgehammer to break the corroded seal, and in the process smashed one of the ends of the thermostat housing. To USMC4LIFEits ethier your head gasget is gone!

Thanks for the tip - Nick at Pelican Parts. How do i fix this? Part of the bolts are inside of the engine block, they need to be removed and retapped. Does anybody bhave an idea? Yes you have to drill a new hole and tap threads or install an insert - Nick at Pelican Parts. Article of no use for changing water pump on e30 i. The is an E30 the article is for the E36 - Nick at Pelican Parts. My car is overheating after two min. I've change the thermosat and water pump.

Any response is better than no response. You may have a bad head gasket - Nick at Pelican Parts. Wayne at Pelican Parts. Wayne, I recently completed the update of the cooling system on my '94 i. I found your book to be helpful except for the instructions on removing the water pump. You stated to use a rubber mallet and this just wouldn't budge it for me. So as a last resort I looked in my Bently manual and it described some pilot holes that were designed to drive the pump out with screws.

This worked like a charm. Please update your article to include this method. This would have saved me some time and frustration. Yes your right and I'm glad it helped savage mkii stocks for sale - Nick at Pelican Parts. Yes the o-ring could cause the leak. The overheating might because of the bad head gasket that caused excessive pressure in the cooling system and blew out the bleed plug but that is pretty rare - Nick at Pelican Parts.

Hello, For those hard to remove BMW water pumps that are fused to the engine block, we sell a water pump removal tool: Thanks Lauren - Nick at Pelican Parts. Already changed water pump thermostat and flush radiator. Sounds to me like everything is working fine. How was it working before you did the work? My I bmw has the temp at half all the time And makes pressure on hoses when on what could be the cuase.

The mock stock trading india being half way and the hoses with a little bit of pressure is normal.

Typical cooling systems can handle up to 15 to 16 psi in them. What is the problem with you car? I have 2 E30 one is an I.

Some jobs are better than others. At least you got it finished - Kerry at Pelican Parts. Replace i coolant pump and fan clutch. With the great tips from Pelican and friends, went to the hardware store bought the 6mm bolts and some lithium grease and expected the worst. Other than the stupid fan shroud design should be like a bikini, an upper bit and a lower bit, not a one piece, the coolant pump removed easily no hammers and not even a thought of a swear word.

In all about 5 hours 3 hours looking for my tools the teenagers have moved around. I am happy I have my car back. Glad we could help, good job - Kerry at Pelican Parts. For those having a hard time removing your e36 water pump, we sell a water pump removal tool. See our website http: We recently upgrade the tool design so we will posting it on the website above within a day or two. Drop me an email if interested.

Thanks for letting out customers know - Kerry at Pelican Parts. Another way to help to remove the water pump is to remove your Radiator and Condenser this will allow you to put a small slide hammer on the water pump and give few strong slides and it will slowly move out. It take a while to make it work, but as I was helping a friend of mine to remove his same problem as my, but it took two guys 3 hours to get everything removed and took 20 Minutes with slide hammer of constant pounding finally it give, so this can be a good idea for all E36 4 Cylinder Cars.

Thanks for the advice for our readers - Kerry at Pelican Parts. The Plastic Impeller is broken off into two pieces before the job other parts must be shredded into pieces. It was not easy, because it require at least two people applying pressure and third person to manage the pressure. It took them 1. Tools they used include Air Hammer, 48" Pry Bar, 6" Pry Bar, and Air Pressure Tools.

When they get it out of the car have them apply tons Lithium Grease on it, so next time it will be easy slide out. If you are in Atlanta the place I go to is European Cars on Pleasant Hill Road near Peachtree Industrial Blvd. Yeah as metal expands and contracts it can seize in there, also corrosion can be a factor as well - Kerry at Pelican Parts. Will Thermostat create a vaccum seal that I was unable to pull the Water Pump out of the car. Will that be the problem? No, once you take of the hoses the system is now open.

Try soaking the water pump with penetrating oil - Kerry at Pelican Parts. Having Super Hard time to take my ti Water Pump Off the car it is impossible bruised both arms and lots of scratches and back pain the sucker just will not come out. Tried all the method listed in the forum whacking it with Mullet, Hammer, and using jacking screws broke the flange on the water pump.

This job turns out to be tougher than I thought any suggestions? Warming the car don't work, flush coolant 3 times burp the car still don't work, built the pull tool did not work, running out the ideas anyone can help that will be great.

Try soaking it with penetrating oil and heating up the pump it's going to get replaced anyway - Kerry at Pelican Parts. Wife has a i Wagon. Needs a radiator hose etc. Decided to replace all I could once in there. Bought the two special wrenches. They are bulky and awkward to use but darn near mandatory. Once I got the fan clutch loose it was a piece of cake! Going to replace radiator all hoses, water pump, ox sensor, thermostat, fan clutch.

So far really easy. Thanks for the insight. Heater control to Hot. Fill with coolant until it reaches the right level. Loosen bleed screw Turn Ignition On, not the engine.

Slowly add coolant until it spills through the bleed screw. Taken from another well known manual and worked like a charm on my car. You can actually hear the air escaping though the bleed screw. If you do not have the bmw special tool for removing the fan but a rather long spanner on it and give it a controlled wack with a medium hammerno rubber.

I respectfully disagree with this approach. While it may work sometimes, I have many emails from people who have broken their pump or flange in this manner. Also, for those with the stuck pump, I searched many forums besides this one and the best way to get it out isn't to mash it with a hammer 'til it becomes loose, but to use the anchor bolts to push the pump away from the head.

Be sure, however, to not put too much force on it and to use both bolts to apply even pressure on both sides. Keep in mind you are putting a concentrated force on the engine when doing this, and if you don't apply force evenly, you can crack the housing I've read horror stories. Mine came out super easy by turning each one about 1 full turn and going back and forth. Screwing bolts into the holes in the side of the water pump is how it is designed to be removed. Be sure to use a longer bolt than what holds the pump in, those are not long enough.

Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help. I have recently used this article to replace the water pump in my '97 is. When I pulled the water pump, I found that I had the plastic style impeller, which had broken into many pieces.

I pulled out every little piece I could find with my fingers, and tried flushing out the system as best as I could with my garden hose. After putting the system back together with the new water pump installed, it started overheating which it had not done when the broken pump was in place. I made sure the coolant level was where it should be some pockets of air forced themselves out and the coolant was low. This did not fix the problem, so I blamed it on the thermostat.

I continued to replace the thermostat, and still no luck, the car starts to overheat if I drive it. Other things I have noticed: My best guess is that the heating valve has now become blocked with some of the broken plastic pieces of the propeller. Does anyone have any other suggestions or ideas why my coolant system is not working properly?

I would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions. Sounds like trapped air to me. Check if the bleeder hole in the reservoir has a steady stream of coolant that increases when engine RPM is raised. If not, air may be trapped. It's also a possibility that pieces of the water pump impellar is stuck somewhere int he cooling system. So my V belt came off, while i was replacing it i noticed my water pump was shot. So i replaced my water pump and the belts. I didnt drain the coolant like i was suppose to first but i attempted to top it off with coolant after the instalation.

Anyhow, Now my car is over heating. I would check if air is trapped in the cooling system. If you didn't bleed it, this would be the best place to start. I need to replace the water pump on my BMW i, where and which part do get this from? I've already replaced thermostat but the car is still overheating and the fan sounds super loud when using the heater.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. A model is an E90, this tech article will help you with replacing the water pump: How do I change the heater hoses in the rear at the firewall of my M Ti? Short of dropping the engine, how do you do it??? You have to remove the intake manifold. Once removed, you can access the heater hoses and pipes. Glad it worked out. Wow, just tried to take my water pump, damn it gave me a hell of a time. Was going to do what nicke36 said, but was a lil apprehensive, SOOO, went to the shed, what could I find to do the job A mattock, nice big thick counter leaver Covered the new one in some lithium paste so it doesn't happen again!

My i is losing coolant and the overheat red light is coming on. What a joke for only having 70, miles and of course out of warranty. I've just removed the water pump from daughters 94 is. Removed all bolts, inserted 2 bolts to "jack" the pump out of the housing, broke off both jacking tabs, applied small taps to the nose of the pump with a mallet It appears that the pump, housing, a little corrosion and some time cause the components to grow together.

I'll be using some petroleum jelly fairly liberally for the reassembly but I think that it may have a limited lifespan in that environment. I think its best to be prepared with a puller and sufficient wood to spread the load across the housing.

Wow, must have had a lot of corrosion. Thanks for the info. Check with a local shop. Installation prices vary depending on region. How can I find out if my water pumps out. Once the engine warms up and the hoses at thermostat are about the same temperature, check the bleeder hole in the reservoir for a steady stream of coolant, the stream should increase along with engine RPM. Two weeks back noticed my vehicles temp gauge spike up to the red. Before any major damaged stopped vehicle and left it.

Replaced water pump and thermostat according to your instructions. Also bled the system. Started the vehicle up and seemed to hold alright.

Took it for a spin and still spiking up high with the temperature. Both upper and lower hose have a lot of pressure after I drove the vehicle and temp spiked up high. Any suggestions what may else be going on? If the system does not hold pressure and there are no external leaks, you may have a faulty head gasket. Make sure ur fan belt is off and radiator. Start ur car up and keep an eye on the temp gauge I have tried for days with copious amounts of wd40 and penetrating oil.

The holes for the bolts are located at the sides of the water pump. Well it's out, but I doubt it will ever talk tome again. Removing the bonnet gave a much better view and angle of attack. Eventually enough light taps with the hammer broke the internal collar of the pump. This allowed me to prise the mangled remains from the hole. Bits of impeller remained and I ran the hose through it several times to flush these bits out. All in all a horrific experience. Don't take this approach if at all possible.

Remove the bonnet and even the grills if necc and use a puller of some description. Off to buy white lithium grease in the morning and hopefully reassembly will involve less hammers and a lot less swearing. Good luck to anyone taking this job on and use a puller if it is stuck like a bastard.

Thanks for the follow up. Fabricated a counter tool from angle iron. Worked a charm and the fan came off. Removed the pulley bolts 4. Removed the Water Pump bolts4. Inserted two of them into the housing and gently turned then one turn at a time to extract the pump.

Snap went the first one. Snap went the second one. Leverage, that's the answer. Err no it's not. The Internet, that's the answer and here we are. Lots of WD40 later, combined with a hammer and a drift, I have two to three mm of rotation.

Am hoping that overnight the WD40 will continue to penetrate. Current plan is to continue the back and forth rotation in order to weaken the grip further.

Then maybe a stilson on the housing to generate more rotation and then I'm hoping to be able to apply some pressure forwards to ease it out. Local supplier can only provide a plastic impeller. First one was already broken when we opened the box. Thanks for the additional Info. Hi, I have a '95 is, it's been making a squeaking from the engine, I thought it was the belts, but now I'm pretty sure it's the water pump.

I recently changed the coolant, and it really affected the sound of the squeaking, plus the sound is coming from the pump. Someone informed me that it may be the pulley, but looking at images of the pulley, it doesn't look like it even has a bearing, and it looks like it just bolts on the front of the pump, so it doesn't seem like that could be it.

Do you know if this pulley has a bearing that could be making the noise? All the components in the engine that rotate have bearings, so it may be the bearings inside the pump. You can remove the drive belt and fan and then try to turn the pump with your hand. You may find that it sticks or is not smooth, which is an indication that it needs to be replaced.

You can try removing the belt from the water pump and then running the engine for a few seconds when its cold to see if the sound disappears. If it does go away, then it's most likely your water pump. Thanks for your tips I was leaning towards aftermarket but needed a second opinion! Is there particular better brand? I don't have a preference, but if you click on the "More Info" link next to the part, you will see a popup that will show you our rating for a particular brand.

I've heard of issues with both styles of pumps. But the car still overheats! The pipe to the radiator gets hot; the return pipe remains cool. Is this because the water is not circulating?

I removed the radiator flushed with water from the tap - good pressure. Applied the hose to the small pipe from the radiator to the block, - no obstructions. What else could be the problem? Well, the top of the hose being hot and the bottom being cold is sort of the way it's supposed to be. If both were cold, then there would be nothing circulating. Hot on top, cold on bottom means the radiator is doing its job - cooling the coolant.

I'm guessing that you have an air bubble in there - try bleeding the system more times with the heater on. Sometimes these BMW cooling systems can be difficult to extract all of the air from. You Guys at Pelican Parts are Great! Thanks from us all!! Just thought you deserved that! Thanks for the kind words! Hi Wayne, Thanks very much for your reply. I used a hammer and a cold chisel - still no luck!

I then found the article on the bolts, and ended up breaking the flange as you said. The top section at 12 o'clock came out about 3mm. The bottom stayed tight. I then used the cold chisel aginst the flange and managed to rotate it a bit to the left.

Then to the right. That msy be another approach. Yup, everyone eventually gets it out, but with varying amounts of force needed to be applied! Hi, Please help, if you can.

I have a i. I am trying to remove the water pump. I have removed the 4 bolts 1 utilises and allen key. I initally tapped it with a hammer to loosen it - no luck. I sprayed releasant on it, left it for more than an hour. See photo's the water pump is in block -different from your example.

A lot of people seem to have this problem. There is another method where you can use some long bolts threaded into the holes of the pump and then drive them against the case to push the water pump out. But, I have also heard of a lot of people breaking the tabs off of the old water pump too, while attempting this. It sounds funny, but I would try a bigger hammer.

Sometimes a rubber mallet just isn't going to cut it, and these tend to get really, really stuck sometimes. People always manage to get them out, but sometimes you have to ratchet up the force that you use.

Done my water pump in 15 minutes. Thanks guys and i didnt even after look any further for advice. You need to use the tool that is shown in Figure 2 of this article here: When i tighened the bolts back up on the housing, even using a torque wrench set correctly, the bottom left looking face on bolt just snapped with hardly any pressure.

As its the bottom left, adn the car is used for trackdays, can i just leave it? If not is there actually a water pump housing? I would probably remove it and replace that broken bolt. Otherwise, you might experience some coolant leaks in the future. Turns out the water pump seized, and snapped the belts. Shop replaced pump, thermostat, pulleys and belts. Noticed vapor smoke behind me so stopped the car at a gas station.

Smoke coming out of the engine bay, Lifted the hood, smelled coolant, noticed the serpentine belts were gone. I can live withthe belt issue as it could be from the pulley, but what about the coolant leak? The temperature gauge did not budge, whereas in the past with belt or tank failure, it has gone to bright red immediately.

Could something have happened to the water pump? If the car is spitting vapor out of the tailpipe, then you have a head gasket leak. Here's what might have happened - you had a belt break, and temps spiked, but since the water pump wasn't pumping coolant through the system, perhaps the temp near the sensor didn't get hot just the heads. Great articles on what I understand is a common cause of overheating. I've just bought a i E36 convertible with the M52 2.

Did this model feature an uprated water pump or should I look to change it. The engine has done 68, miles and doesn't seem to overheat. BMW switched back and forth between metal and plastic impellers over the years.

The only way I know of to tell which one is in there is to remove it, unfortunately. My water pump looks different to the one shown above, as though its inset,see pic Have removed the four outer bolts but they don't seem to be doing anything, there are also four hex key bolts, I assume these are actually holding the pump in place, the jacking holes are top and bottom although can't get anything into bottom hole as the cog is in the way.

The replacement pump which I've been assured is for my make, model year bmwlooks different to the the one I'm removing, pretty much like the one above, looks like it is attached using the outer bolts not the hex ones. Do you think this will fit and form a good seal, any advice is welcome. Yes, you will have to remove those Allen bolts. Just came in from pulling the pump from my '96 ti.

It was stuck pretty good. I put the jack bolts in and snugged them up. I tapped and prodded. I snugged up the bolts some more. Finally the lower tab holding the jack screw breaks off. Tighten the top screw some more. Finally the housing or most of it pops out, but it's broken just below the o-ring groove, and broken the plastic impeller off the shaft.

Fortunately the rest of the housing wiggles out without too much difficulty. I then spent an hour fishing out the broken pieces of the impeller. On closer inspection I can see that the top jack bolt never actually made contact with the pad it pushes on. The threads in the housing were corroded enough that it felt as though it had made contact, when in fact it was just binding in the threads, and wasn't pushing at all.

If you are removing the pump on your car, take a few minutes and run a tap or thread chaser through the jackbolt holes. It'll probably save you some grief. This is how i done mine which was very stubborn. Used the two 6mm bolts and used the two jacking points on the pump, the idea is to carefully and evenly tighten the two 6mm bolts two to three turns at a time then undo them tap the pump with a mallet back in the housing and reapeat this process a good few times and this should release the stubborn pump out.

NEVER ATTEMPT TO TURN THE 2 BOLTS FULLY THE FIRST TIME AS THIS WOULD PROBABLY BREAK THE LUGS BE PATIENT AND TAKE A LITTLE MORE TIME BY THREADING THEM IN AND THREADING THEM OUT AND BY TAPPING THE PUMP WITH THE MALLET IN AND ROUND. I would not recommend using too much pressure on the chain cover as this could crack the casing.